Waking up at Olive Green Hotel in the heart of Heraklion, Crete, I knew today was going to be another glorious adventure on this enchanting island. Even expats like me need to explore their adopted home from time to time. By 10:00, I grabbed a bag of scrumptious pastries and coffee from my favorite local bakery and set out for Chania—a two-hour scenic drive to discover the Venetian charms of Crete’s second city.
Chania Old Town and Venetian Harbour
Chania old town is an art lover’s paradise. It conforms to a typical Venetian vibe. With lots of Italian architecture and an abundance of old narrow streets and paths that make you feel as if you could get lost in time. There are endless curiosities dotted around the narrow labyrinth-like alleyways that branch off from the Old Town. From the ornate architecture showcased in its many historical fortifications to the alluring fashion boutiques and artisan shops. Each laneway is decorated with balconies sporting bougainvilleas and colourful signs inviting you into cafes, bars and tavernas. A very romantic setting that put me in mind of old movies where lovers would catch eyes across a crowd and the rest would become history.
The Old Town connects to the Old Port down one of the charming alleyways, and stepping out onto the panoramic harbor was a sight to behold. I emerged at the harbor on the Western side, and the first things that caught my eye were the towering ramparts of the remaining Firka Venetian Fortress, also known as Revellino del Porto. I followed it around and watched as the architecture folded into new combinations of styles and periods with each step. Revealing the dramatic historical changes Chania has seen over the centuries. To the left, my view was captivated by Chania’s own 16th-century lighthouse. Being a lover of quaint lighthouses, I found it hard to ignore and tried to make haste towards it.
At the harbor, I stumbled upon the Yali Tzamisi Mosque glowing with an inner light. Its Turkish domes and stonework are breathtaking. After exploring the art exhibit inside, I sat down for brunch at Pallas Café—a historic 1830s building where modern elegance meets traditional stonework.
Day Hopping Chania’s Beaches
The next morning I rose out of bed early and remembering where I was, excitedly stepped straight out to the street in the search of pastry. Chania city is divided into a tri-section. Including the Jewish Quarter, the Old Town, and Chania City. In the latter section (a hop, skip and a jump from the Municipal Market of Chania) lies one of the jewels of the city – Iordanis Bougatsa. A family-owned bakery that has been delighting tastebuds for 100 years, and I couldn’t wait to try it for myself. Here, the bougatsa is traditionally made with sweetened Cretan mizithra, a divine soft cheese similar to ricotta. I chose one big slice sprinkled with cinnamon and ate it on the way to pick up my rental car for the day. I regretted my decision, as once I’d finished it, I was too far away to order another!
Gramvousa to Balos Beach Cruise
Crete has some of the best island-hopping cruises, as you’ll certainly discover here.
Starting from Kissamos, I boarded a ferry to Balos—a paradise of turquoise waters and powder-white sand. Balos is one of Crete’s most iconic beaches, best reached by boat to avoid the mountain trek and to enjoy stops at Agria Gramvousa and Cape Vouxa.
No two places in Crete are the same, but they all emit this charming old-world vibe, as though you’re stuck between centuries.
Poised between Kissamos and Gramvousa, Balos is one of those beaches that makes you feel like you’ve entered a dream world. You can drive to Balos beach and hike down from the car park where the mountain goats will give you a warm welcome. Personally, I absolutely recommend the boat excursion from the port of Kissamos that takes in the islet of Agria Gramvousa and Cape Vouxa (Trypiti). When it comes to crystalline waters, exotic white beaches, and intensely picturesque backdrops, Balos takes the cake. It truly has to be seen to be believed.
Elafonissi Beach – Crete’s Most Popular Beach
An hour and a half south of Chania, Elafonissi’s blush-pink sand and aqua waters were mesmerizing. Walking along its shores, I watched tiny sea creatures dart in and out of rock pools, their movements almost hypnotic.
Known to be one of the most spectacular beaches in Crete, the jewel-like hue is formed by billions of crushed seashells – hense the pink sand. The closer you try to look at them the more mesmerized you become as the pale pink sand contrasts strikingly with the pure aqua waters. As I walked along the dazzling shores, I came across a small rockpool that was being created by the surrounding rocks and spent a merry hour just watching the sea-life scuttle in and out of view amongst the opulent pink sand. In late summer the beach was busy. It’s deservedly one of the most popular beaches in Crete, but every face I saw just beamed with delight at the gorgeous location, or perhaps the joy at purchasing a giant inflatable flamingo. Over the water, I could make out Elafonisi island, home to even more pink peaches and an elegant little chapel. Was there ever a more perfect place in which to say your vows?
Stavros Beach – A Zorba Classic
The next day I was on the road again, whistling along with the winds to Stavros beach for a spot of relaxation just half an hour far from the city center. I’d heard of the place in my research as the filming spot for Zorba the Greek, so I knew it was going to be stunning. Although, as the film is in black and white, I couldn’t prepare myself for the truly stunning colours of Stavros beach. Not to mention that the beach formed a perfect crescent, a marvel that always excites me about a beach. It’s like nature painted a picture and wanted everything to be just right. Stavros is at the very northern tip of the Akrotiri peninsula, so everything feels more wild and rugged. I swam around for a while before setting up on the sand to finally do a spot of reading. I didn’t try my hand at the famous Syrtaki dance from the movie’s closing scenes. But before my trip was over, with a few glasses of wine behind me, I’m sure I would take the chance.
Hiking the Samaria Gorge – Crete’s Most Beautiful Nature Walk
No trip to western Crete is complete without hiking Samaria Gorge, one of Europe’s most stunning canyons. The 6-hour trek winds through rugged terrain, vibrant flora, and ends at Agia Roumeli beach—where I plunged into the cool water to soothe my tired legs.
Samaria Gorge is one of the most picturesque and rugged pieces of Crete’s landscape, gorged through the White Mountains in Western Crete. Tramping through this epic landscape is simply jaw-dropping. It’s like walking through a giant’s back garden if the giant was a big fan of landscaping with lovely flowers and pretty streams. For the first half an hour of the hike, my mind floods with inner turmoil. ‘Why am I doing this?’ ‘I’ll never make it.’ ‘It’s too hot.’
But as the minutes pass nature surrounds me like a gentle hand, and as soon as my feet touch the cool, clear water running in little rivulets at the base of the gorge I feel alive and ready to tackle the awesome journey. You need your wits about you and a strong pair of knees for Samaria, as the 6-hour hike is practically all downhill. One of the best parts of hiking the gorge comes at the end. As I took my last few steps, the rocky terrain turned to sand, and I found myself in the welcoming arms of Agia Roumeli beach. Every hike should end with the opportunity to plunge into invigorating waters, and I let the water ease my muscles from the strenuous journey, before returning to Hora Sfakion on the ferry (You can hire a driver to drop you off and pick you up from here!). Hora Sfakion is a quaint little sea town that sees much of its tourism through port activity. From here you can reach the lazy village of Loutro, as well as Agia Roumeli, Sougia and Paleochora. It’s also the best place to catch a ferry to the incredibly remote Gavdos Island.
Explore Crete’s natural wonders: The Top Hiking Trails in Heraklion Crete
Dinner in Chania
Back in Chania Old Town, I dined at Oinopoieio Tavern, a hidden gem with traditional décor and a cozy kitchen aroma that felt like home. I savored slow-cooked lamb and finished with sfakiani pie topped with honey, sesame, and vanilla ice cream—simple, elegant, divine.
As I walked back to the harbor, golden hour light bathed the pastel-colored buildings. The scene felt timeless, and I knew I’d fallen even more in love with Crete.
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