Stepping off the plane at Chania airport, the warmth of the Cretan sun was a welcome contrast to the brisk winds we had left behind.
My partner and I had chosen Western Crete for our two-week sojourn, drawn in by the promise of a land rich in tradition and culture.
We yearned to live the island life as locals, embracing experiences that touched the essence of Cretan culture.
Having traveled extensively through the eastern and southern parts of Crete on previous occasions, my partner and I were called toward the untouched beauty of Chania. This area of Western Crete promised an experience unlike any other.
Here, the longest sandy beaches stretch for miles, glistening under the Mediterranean sun. The city’s traditional architecture remains impeccably preserved, each stone whispering tales of a time gone by. The quaint, colorful stone houses lining the narrow alleys of the old city create a picturesque scene straight out of a postcard.
But perhaps the most enticing allure of Chania is its natural grandeur. The region’s unique topography unfolds as verdant olive groves give way to towering mountains, their slopes densely populated by an array of native trees.
Each of these facets contributes to the distinctive charm of Chania, setting it apart from the rest of Crete.
Day 1-2: Olive Mills and Snail Foraging in Apokoronas
In Apokoronas, we were welcomed by the rhythmic dance of olive trees gently swaying in the Cretan breeze. Our first day was dedicated to understanding the intricate process of olive oil production at a historic mill. From handpicking the perfectly ripe olives to the gentle pressing and careful extraction of the golden oil, we experienced each step firsthand.
Our second day led us to the fields with local foragers. The snail foraging tradition, dating back to ancient times, was an experience that combined adventure with a gastronomic delight. The collected snails, later transformed into delicious local delicacies, added a touch of magic to our home-cooked meals.
RELATED GUIDE HERE: Best Cretan Food to Try On Your Next Visit
Day 3-4: Stone Wells and Lace Making in Gavalochori Village
The village of Gavalochori held an aura of serenity, the silent stone wells standing as a testament to the resourcefulness of past generations. It is an old historical village with particularly interesting and well-preserved folk architecture. A lot of interesting buildings can be found, such as the 18th century arched olive oil press, the temples of Panagia and Agios Sergios, the old school, and the folklore museum. Our first day was spent admiring ancient structures, their presence linking us to the village’s history.
Our second day in Gavalochori led us to a women’s cooperative specializing in lace-making, locally known as “kopaneli”. Under the guidance of skilled artisans, we were introduced to the delicate technique of this traditional craft. The detailed patterns, formed by meticulous knots and loops, breathed life into the simple thread, transforming it into a piece of Cretan heritage.
Day 5-6: Sea Salt Harvesting in Kissamos
The first day in Kissamos was marked by a rejuvenating swim on the Balos beach. The breathtaking turquoise waters provided the perfect setting to unwind and bask in the beauty of nature. Kissamos is known for its natural grandeur which include Balos Lagoon, Kedrodasos Beach, the Ancient City of Polyrinia, Sirikari Gorge – Polyrrinia Trail, Komolithi geolithic formations.
The second day was dedicated to understanding the traditional practice of sea salt harvesting. We observed the shallow pools filled with seawater and learnt about the patient waiting for the sun to work its magic, leaving behind crystals of sea salt. Helping with the harvest, we gained a newfound respect for this simple yet vital ingredient.
Day 7: Kafeneio Culture in Douliana Village
In the tranquil village of Douliana, we found ourselves drawn to the kafeneio, the social hub of Cretan society. It was here, under the cool shade of old trees and over cups of robust coffee, that we listened to tales of Cretan life, as varied as the patterns on the lace we’d learned to weave. The kafeneio was a world unto itself, a blend of aromatic brews, animated discussions, and warm camaraderie that revealed the soul of the island.
In this traditional settlement, you will find two churches – monuments of the 19th century, two traditional taverns with distinct Cretan flavors from local products and a mini market.
Through the village, a few meters from the square, begins the path to the natural road of Agios Ioannis, a small church built inside a cave.
In the tranquil Douliana village, we spent our first day exploring the picturesque surroundings and getting acquainted with the locals.
Day 8: Traversing Samaria Gorge
The UNESCO recognized Samaria Gorge, the second longest gorge in Europe, welcomed us with its rugged beauty and diverse flora. Our first day was spent trekking through the trail (from 7am to 13:00pm), soaking in the sights and sounds of this natural marvel. The hike ends at Agia Rouméli, where you can catch the ferry to Sfakia.
Day 9: Gruyere Cheese in Sfakia
The air in Sfakia was crisper, tinged with the salty tang of the sea and the earthy aroma of the mountain goats. The gruyère cheese from this region was legendary, and we were eager to experience the process from start to finish.
We became temporary farmers, assisting in milking the goats, a task that brought peals of laughter, especially when the goats had a mind of their own. Day was spent in a hands-on experience of making the famed gruyère. From milking the goats, to heating the milk and adding rennet, we were part of the fascinating process, culminating in a delicious feast of homemade gruyère.
The cheese-making process was fascinating, and the end result was a robust, hearty slice of gruyère that paired beautifully with local wine, a combination that will forever be engraved in our palate.
Day 10: Cretan Knives in Souda
Our journey took us to Souda, a city that holds on to its ancient craft of knife-making. The rhythmic melody of hammer on steel echoed through the workshop as we watched artisans create the traditional Cretan knives, each one unique, each one bearing a story etched onto its blade.
This wasn’t merely a display of skill, but a dance of heritage and pride passed down through generations.
The day was spent understanding the history and significance of the craft, with every etching on the blade narrating a unique story. The blacksmith allowed us a closer look at the forging process, watching him skillfully transform a piece of steel into a symbol of Cretan culture.
Last Day
On our last day in Crete, we visited the Venetian port of Chania, took a long walk around the narrow stone alleys, and ended up in Dounias Tavern in Drakona village for local homemade food. We chose the road of Therissos. The route is magical and full of canyons, rocks, trees, and waters.
The beautiful thing about Crete, we realized, is that it doesn’t just show you its culture, it invites you to live it. To taste, to craft, to laugh, to learn, and ultimately, to carry a piece of it within you, wherever you may go.
Final Reflections on our Trip to Western Crete
Reflecting on our journey, it was clear that Chania had offered us an immersive cultural experience that went beyond sightseeing. We lived the traditions, tasted the flavors, and connected with the people.
Each part of our journey – the unique olive oil, the delicate lace, the crystal-like sea salt, the robust gruyère, and the symbolic Cretan knife – was a testament to Chania’s indomitable spirit and cultural richness. Through our experiences, we came to carry a piece of Chania in our hearts, a memory to be cherished forever.
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