Estimated Reading Time: 9–10 minutes
Where the Vineyards Whisper Stories
If you’ve ever driven southeast from Heraklion with no particular plan—just an open heart and half a tank of gas—you might find yourself winding through the gentle slopes of central Crete. That’s how I stumbled upon Myrtia, a village I thought I’d merely pass through but ended up carrying with me long after I returned to my base at the Lato Annex Boutique Rooms in Heraklion.
Located just 16 kilometers from Heraklion, Myrtia feels like a secret whispered by the hills. Known for centuries for its wine, it’s now finding new life as a cultural destination. And while the vineyards and churches are certainly worth a visit, what really makes Myrtia unforgettable is the sense that you’re walking in the footsteps of stories—some ancient, some still unfolding.
First Impressions: A Village of Vines and Verses 🍇
Arriving in Myrtia is like stepping into a sunlit memory. Built at an altitude of 365 meters, the village is hugged by olive groves and vineyards that stretch to the horizon. I parked just outside the center and began walking—shoes crunching softly against the earth, a breeze carrying hints of thyme and ripening grapes.
It’s not just the beauty of the place—it’s the feeling. Time slows down here. Locals nod as you pass, and the occasional “Kalimera” echoes like a welcome song. The houses are modest but well-kept, many with vibrant bougainvillea spilling over whitewashed walls. You feel safe. Held. Home.
My goal was to explore the famous Kazantzakis Museum, but like all good Cretan villages, Myrtia had its own way of telling me where to go first.
Churches, Legends, and Living Faith ⛪
As I wandered, I found myself drawn into a stone courtyard where elderly women were lighting candles. They told me I was standing in front of the Church of the Virgin Mary (Panagia) , the main church of the village. One of them, Maria, smiled and said, “She was built in 40 days, you know.”
That’s how stories are told here—with reverence and mystery.
Myrtia is full of such churches: Saint Anthony, Transfiguration of the Savior, Annunciation, and Agios Georgios, each a quiet sentinel of centuries past. These aren’t tourist sites—they’re touchstones of everyday life. If you listen closely, they speak.
I lit a candle in each one I visited. Not out of religious habit, but out of deep respect. You don’t enter these places as a spectator. You enter as a guest.
The Heart of the Village: The Kazantzakis Museum 📚
You can’t walk far in Myrtia without hearing the name Nikos Kazantzakis—the legendary author of Zorba the Greek and The Last Temptation of Christ. And indeed, the Kazantzakis Museum sits at the center of the village like a wellspring of thought.
Stepping into the museum was like stepping into the author’s soul. Manuscripts, photos, travel journals, personal belongings—all curated with a loving hand. What struck me most was the intensity in his letters. His words burned with longing—for truth, for justice, for meaning.
There was a quote on the wall I scribbled into my notebook:
“I hope for nothing. I fear nothing. I am free.”
It’s etched on his grave in Heraklion, but it felt even more powerful here—in the soil where he spent part of his childhood. I walked out into the bright courtyard with tears in my eyes, not of sadness, but of awe.
A Hike Through History: The E4 Trail 🥾
Later that afternoon, I picked up a trailhead just beyond the village, where the E4 European Path slices through the countryside from Archanes to Myrtia to Agarathos Monastery.
I’ve hiked a fair bit of Crete, but this stretch was especially serene. The hills rolled gently like a sleeping giant, dotted with gnarled olive trees and swaying vineyards. At one point, I passed through Fourni, a place that houses one of the largest ancient cemeteries in the South Aegean. Even the ground here tells stories.
I crossed the Kounavian Gorge via a stone bridge, then began the short climb to Myrtia. By the time I reached the village again, my lungs were full of sweet air, my legs warm with gratitude.
If you’re not up for a full hike, Neraidospilios (about 20 km from Heraklion) is another magical spot. Tucked in the Astrakian Gorge, it’s a cave where—legend has it—fairies made their home. As I stood among the gurgling springs and lush greenery, I could believe it.
Local Flavors and the People Who Serve Them 🍷
Near the village, I stopped at a taverna where three generations of a family were seated at one table, chatting in soft Cretan dialect. A young girl brought me lamb with stamnagathi and a carafe of red wine so vibrant I swear I could taste the sunshine.
“This is from Stilianou Winery,” she said proudly. “Just down the road.”
I later visited their site—stilianouwinery.com—and realized just how rooted their process was in organic farming and local varietals. You can taste the story in every sip.
That’s the thing about food in Myrtia. It isn’t just food. It’s family. Memory. Devotion.
A Village Framed by Gorges & Monasteries 🏞️
To the west of Myrtia lies the Kounavian Gorge, and to the east, the Karteros Gorge. I took a morning to walk the lush path to the Panagia Spiliotissa Monastery, accessible by a charming wooden bridge that felt like the entrance to a fairy tale.
Nearby, you’ll find two beautiful old churches: Agios Ioannis and Agia Kyriaki, each perched like silent watchers of the valley.
And if you’re feeling ambitious, consider the full circular route from Kalloni – Agios Vasileios – Spiliotissa Gorge – Myrtia – Kastellos Kornaron – back to Kalloni. It’s an easy, 3-hour trail through fortresses, monasteries, gorges, and stone bridges—a living museum under open sky.
Returning to Heraklion: A Comfortable Pause 🌆
After a day so rich in sights, stories, and spirit, I was glad to return to the calm of Lato Annex Boutique Rooms in Heraklion.
The room was cool, quiet, and just what I needed. A comfy bed, a hot shower, and a short stroll later, I was watching the stars reflect off the Venetian harbor nearby.
Lato Annex is ideal if you’re planning day trips like this. Close to everything—Knossos, the Archaeological Museum, ferry terminals, and the airport—yet tucked away enough to give you peace. It’s become my go-to base for exploring central Crete.
Book your stay at Lato Annex Boutique Rooms →
Final Thoughts 🌿
Myrtia may be small, but it holds the entire spirit of Crete in its hills and hearts. It’s not just the birthplace of Kazantzakis—it’s the cradle of Cretan memory and imagination.
Whether you come for the hiking, the wine, the churches, or the culture, you’ll leave with more than souvenirs. You’ll carry songs, smells, sights—and perhaps a shift in your soul.
So next time you’re in Heraklion, don’t just look out over the hills. Drive into them. Find Myrtia. And let it find you.
Relevant Articles
You might also like
Leave A Reply