Choosing to explore Rethymno was an easy decision. As someone who appreciates history and culture, I was drawn to this region’s rich heritage, its timeless traditions, and the stories that seep from its very soil.
From the moment I started researching, I knew Rethymno was a treasure trove of experiences waiting to be lived.
This region, located on the north coast of Crete island, not only boasts some of the most breathtaking landscapes but also holds within it an array of traditional crafts and practices, each one a testament to the indomitable Cretan spirit.
Day 1: Divine Heights – Ideo Antro in Nida Mount (Cave of Zeus)
Our journey began with an exhilarating drive up the winding roads leading to Nida Plateau, located on the iconic Psiloritis Mountain.
Nida, known for its majestic beauty, was already alive with blooming endemic flowers. As we stepped out of our vehicle, the crisp mountain air filled our lungs, and the vast plateau stretched out before us like a natural amphitheater, making our hearts beat with anticipation.
With a mixture of excitement and reverence, we trekked towards the Ideo Antro, the famed Cave of Zeus. Legend tells that this is the birthplace of Zeus, the King of the Gods, an idea that added an ethereal quality to our exploration. The entrance to the cave welcomed us like an open mouth, leading us to the belly of the myth-imbued cave.
As we ventured inside, our footsteps echoed off the cavernous walls. The air turned colder, the light dimmer, and in the silence, we could almost hear whispers of ancient legends. The grandeur of the cave, with its massive stalagmites and stalactites, was nothing short of awe-inspiring.
It was a place where mythology and nature intertwined, leaving us humbled and full of wonder.
Day 2: Crafting Legacy – Pottery in Margarites Village
The picturesque Margarites village was our next stop, famous for its long-standing pottery tradition. As we meandered through the cobblestone streets, the rhythmic hum of potter’s wheels filled the air. Entering a small, rustic pottery workshop, we were greeted by Yannis, a local artisan.
With years of practice evident in his weathered hands, he showed us how to mold the local clay on the spinning wheel. His tales of ancient pottery techniques and his passion for his craft added to the allure of the experience.
We each had our go at the wheel, our hands turning and shaping the wet clay. While our attempts were far from perfect, the joy of creating something with our own hands was a feeling we wouldn’t soon forget.
Day 3: Melody of Tradition – Lyra Making in Rethymno
Next, we delved into the world of traditional music, focusing on the creation of the Lyra, a local string instrument. In a small, fragrant workshop filled with various stages of Lyras, we met Nikos, an experienced luthier.
His hands danced over the instruments, his movements as rhythmic and hypnotic as the melodies the Lyra produces. We learned about the various woods used, the delicate process of carving, and the assembly of this iconic instrument.
As we held the finished Lyras, their polished wood smooth under our hands, we were moved by the passion and precision encapsulated in each one.
Day 4: The Scent of the Earth – Aladania Foraging in Sises Village
Our journey led us to the tranquil Sises Village. Here, we met Maria, a local herbalist, who introduced us to the world of aladania, a local medicinal herb. As we roamed the nearby hills, we found ourselves reconnecting with nature.
The sun warmed our backs as Maria showed us how to identify aladania among the sea of green. We learned not only to spot the herb but also about its various health benefits and how to use it in homemade remedies.
Day 5: Art of the Kitchen – Phyllo Making & ‘Mitata’
On our final day, we started early, back in Rethymno. Eager to master the art of making phyllo, we met with an expert baker, Giorgos.
We learned about the process: kneading the dough until it was smooth and elastic, letting it rest, and then rolling it out until it was as thin as paper. Our hands were covered in flour, our faces lit with concentration and joy.
In the afternoon, we ventured up to Psiloritis Mountain. We walked among the mitata, the stone igloos used by shepherds, both as shelters and for the making of the best mature gruyere, called ‘tripes’.
We marveled at the simplicity and functionality of these structures, a testament to the resourcefulness of the Cretan shepherds.
Our journey in Rethymno was a tapestry of experiences, a blend of tradition, culture, and nature that left us with a deeper understanding and appreciation of Crete.
Final Thoughts
As our journey in Rethymno drew to a close, I was filled with a profound sense of gratitude. Each day had brought with it a new revelation, a new connection, a deeper understanding of the timeless tapestry that makes up Crete’s culture.
From exploring the divine heights of Nida Mount to foraging for herbs in Sises Village, from shaping clay on the potter’s wheel in Margarites to experiencing the rhythm of the Lyra in Rethymno, we had journeyed through the past and present of this vibrant region.
The people of Rethymno, with their warmth, their knowledge, and their passion, had made us feel welcome and included us in their traditions. And as we looked back on our time spent here, we realized that we had not just been spectators but active participants in a living, breathing culture.
Rethymno was more than just a destination—it was an experience, a story, a dance of culture and nature, and we were privileged to have been a part of it. As we prepared to leave, we knew we were not saying goodbye but rather, until next time. For a place as enchanting as Rethymno, there will undoubtedly be a next time.
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