When staying at Olive Green Hotel in Heraklion, Crete, you’re just an hour’s scenic drive from the pristine natural beauty of Zaros—a village known for its freshwater lake and mystical forests. This day trip is ideal for travelers who want to combine the vibrancy of Heraklion city life with peaceful immersion in Crete’s countryside.
A Village Built on Water
“Zaros” in Greek means “a place with a lot of water,” and true to its name, this tranquil village sits on the southern slope of Psiloritis Mountain, Crete’s tallest range. The artificial lake was formed in 1987 to collect water from the Votomos and Mati springs, providing the island with fresh drinking water.
Sitting by the water’s edge at one of the charming tavernas, I sipped coffee and admired the emerald-green lake shimmering under the midday sun. You can’t swim here, but tasting the Zaros spring water is an experience itself—it’s bottled right here and exported across Crete.
By tracing a little way from the lake, you can visit the Votomos springs themselves, and try the refreshingly cold water straight from the source in a little fountain where the water spurts out of the mouth of little filigree faces sculpted into the basin of the fountain. After a short stroll around one edge of the lake, the sun was getting high, and I made a beeline for one of the traditional tavernas on the edge of the lake.
Wildlife, Birds and Picnic Dreams
The perfect time to visit is in spring or early summer when the flora and fauna put on a full show of colour and sound. Bird song was rife among the trees and I listened to the chirrups, tweets and swoons from my perch by the water. I had no idea what sound came from what bird. But it all made for a glorious symphony that only nature can create. Trout were gliding through the freshwaters. Along with a plethora of other curious fish large and small. One of the most endearing moments of the day was when a hoard of little turtles began to pop their heads inquisitively above the water. They looked around for a morsel or two, then dived back into the depths below.
Prepping like a Cretan
It was going to be a hot day in late spring, so I chose my outfit wisely. A light summer dress and straw sunhat that would leave me picture perfect for an afternoon picnic by the lake. Plus a pair of hiking shorts and light cotton vest underneath for my foray into the forest. Trusty walking sandals added to the list. And of course, lots and lots of sunscreens to top up throughout the day. My outfit might have been simple, but my provisions were far from it. The evening before in my room at the Olive Green, I had curated a bunch of ingredients from ‘Mpaharia & Votana’ on Dikeosinis Street in Heraklion. I brewed them with a little sweet honey. Then decanted the luxurious liquid into a bottle with lots of ice. To make for the most refreshing iced tea I’ve ever tasted.
Food is practically a religion in Crete, and during my stay here I wanted to do as the locals do and make it a priority. My picnic was for one, but the smorgasbord of goodies I had procured would have anyone believe otherwise. A foodie does as she must. An ideal selection to watch the wind send light ripples over the calm water. A delicate balance of cheese, deli meats and nuts on crisp sourdough. Pure heaven. Today’s cheese choice was a delicious peppery Graviera recommended by the shop owner. I also picked up a slice of watermelon from the roadside vendors. The fruit is surprisingly cheap and varied in Crete! The perfect picnic would not be complete without a small bottle of local olive oil to dribble over my snacks. Everything was packed smartly in my hiking pack. With a little extra room to take off my cotton dress (with less weight from all that cheese I ate). When I finally made my way off into the forest.
Into the Rouvas Forest
From the lake, a path opens up into the Agiou Nikolaou Gorge.
Around 20 minutes in is the Monastery of Agios Nikolaos (Monastery of St. Nicholas Zaros). Sitting on its parapet beyond a spectacular view of the surrounding mountains contrasting against the striking white walls of the monastery. From there the path heads uphill into the part of the gorge that saw some recent trauma. The beautiful gorge is still recovering from a huge fire in 1994, so some of the colourful greenery has sadly been destroyed, but it continues to revitalize every year and remains incredibly lovely. Here, the views occasionally open up over Zaros and the Messara plain, and on a clear day, the distance to admire is quite breathtaking!
Around 2.5 km along the path a canyon leads into the mysteries of the Rouvas Forest. (The route is 10km, 4-5 hours return). It’s one of the few kermes oak forests in Greece, and to be found in such an unexpected place – on the side of a mountain. As one of the oldest forests in Crete, some of the trees reach over a metre in diameter and climb 15 metres high. Entering into this dense grotto is like entering into a fairytale. As well as ancient oaks and some specific holly trees that are very important to the ecosystem. There are plane trees, pine trees, cypresses; there are also abelitsia; Cretan zelkovas that grow only in Crete. Along with hoards of grand maple trees. Tracing the forest floor in autumn would be a glorious sight as the maple leaves turn the forest foliage deep red and honey gold.
As the path became narrower, I stumbled upon a small river, no doubt fed by the same luscious springs as the lake. Now far behind me. Little ponds and waterfalls formed here and there. I couldn’t help but splash some of the cold water onto my face and hair to cool off in the heat of the day. The landscape became even lovelier as I continued. Dancing over a pretty wooden bridge, and into the heart of the Agios Ioannis forest. Reaching the end of my journey here. I was ready to sit and rest in the shade of the old chapel and finish the last of my tea the peaceful setting.
If you wish to do the journey one way, you can arrange for a driver to collect you from St. John.
Sustainable Adventures from the City
At Olive Green Hotel, our team believes in experiences that connect you with the essence of Crete—not just its surface. That’s why we love recommending places like Zaros. Whether you’re a nature lover, a hiker, or a picnic enthusiast, this eco-adventure is perfect for anyone looking to discover the slower, more authentic side of the island.
You can even arrange for one-way hikes and pickups back to Heraklion—just ask our concierge team to help you plan the perfect green escape.
Trout, Taverna, and the Taste of Reward
After returning from the forest trail, I treated myself to a lake-side meal at one of Zaros’s traditional tavernas. Fresh grilled trout, caught locally from the lake’s aquaculture farm, was the perfect finale to the day—tender, flavorful, and impossibly fresh.
The setting sun sparkled across the lake, the birds began their evening chorus, and I felt more grounded and grateful than I had in weeks. One day in Zaros, and the soul feels lighter.
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