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My recent trip to Eastern Crete was nothing short of extraordinary. What first drew my interest was the renowned beaches for surfing and beach festivals. What I found out next was that the region is also rich in culture, history, and tradition, and I had the pleasure of visiting two stunning locations: Moni Toplou, a monastery renowned for its tsikoudia, and Kavousi Village, famous for its delicious lychnarakia. I just have to share my experiences with you so you can understand the unique charm of these places.
Starting the Journey from Lato Boutique Hotel
Before setting off to the far east of Crete, I based myself at Lato Boutique Hotel in Heraklion. Perched above the old Venetian harbor and within walking distance to the port and the city’s historic center, this hotel was the ideal springboard for my adventure. Its calm, contemporary aesthetic and panoramic views helped me ease into the journey ahead. From there, a 2.5-hour drive led me to the rugged and spiritual landscape of Moni Toplou.
Moni Toplou
Stepping into Moni Toplou, felt like stepping into the pages of history. This Byzantine monastery on the eastern coast of Crete has a breathtaking location and holds countless stories within its walls.
The monastery has been the refuge for the persecuted locals but also a revolutionary hearth during the Turkish rule. During the German occupation, the monastery served also to facilitate communication with the allied troops who were then in Cairo (through its radio). But when the Germans discovered it, they executed the monks.
Its stunning architecture, fortified walls, and magnificent frescoes speak volumes about its importance in the region’s heritage.
You wouldn’t believe the tsikoudia I tasted at Moni Toplou! It’s renowned worldwide for its exceptional quality, and I could see why. The monastery is a hub for organic vine and olive cultivation, and their products, including oil, wine, and tsikoudia, are highly esteemed in the global market. I had the chance to explore their modern winery and distillery facilities and even got to taste their exquisite olive oil.
The monastery’s architecture left me in awe, featuring a three-story bell tower, fortified walls, and a beautiful courtyard. Within its walls, the church is adorned with magnificent frescoes, many of which date back to the 14th century. These artworks depict religious scenes and offer a glimpse into the rich artistic heritage of Eastern Crete.
The artifacts at Moni Toplou were truly awe-inspiring. The museum houses an incredible collection of copperplates and Greek folk engravings crafted by monks in the 18th and 19th centuries. I marveled at the vast array of icons, relics, manuscripts, liturgical books, and so much more. Oh, and the library! Rare books and beautifully decorated spaces adorned with high-art frescoes left me speechless.
As I wandered through the monastery, I couldn’t help but feel a deep sense of spirituality and connection to the past. The monks who live and work there exude a serene presence, and their dedication to preserving the monastery’s legacy is truly inspiring.
Kavousi Village: Olive Groves, Ancient Sites, and Lychnarakia
Nestled in the hills of Eastern Crete, Kavousi Village is a picturesque gem. The village’s history goes back to the Minoan period, and its residents are skilled in olive oil production. While there are no artisans in the village, the olive oil and essential oils derived from the area’s aromatic plants are absolutely remarkable.
I must tell you about the traditional lychnarakia I tried in Kavousi. These sweet cheese pies are made with the region’s exceptional olive oil, and their taste is simply divine. I couldn’t help but indulge in these delicious treats at a local bakery.
Kavousi is also home to several historical and archaeological sites. I visited the ancient settlement of Azoria, which offered a fascinating glimpse into the Iron Age and Archaic periods, the Monumental Ancient Olive Tree Azorias, and the Tholos tomb of Kamilari, a magnificent example of Minoan funerary architecture, left me in awe.
I also had the opportunity to explore the nearby archaeological sites of Vrontas and Kastro. These ancient settlements provided further insight into the region’s intriguing past, with well-preserved buildings and artifacts shedding light on the daily life of their ancient inhabitants.
Walking through the village, I was struck by the warmth and hospitality of the local residents. They were eager to share their stories and knowledge of Kavousi’s rich history, which made my experience all the more meaningful.
source Cretanbeaches.com
Nature lovers would adore Kavousi. The village is surrounded by lush landscapes, perfect for hiking and exploring the great outdoors. I ventured through the nearby Ha Gorge, one of Crete’s most impressive gorges, and the stunning views were absolutely worth the trek. The diverse flora and fauna in the area made for a captivating experience as I wandered through the picturesque surroundings.
I loved a swim at the Tholos beach, surrounded by ancient olive groves and vineyards, just 4 km north of Kavousi.
Spiritual Corners and Hidden History
Charming churches and chapels pepper the countryside around Kavousi, each offering their own architectural quirks and spiritual ambiance. These religious structures often feature beautiful frescoes and traditional Cretan architecture, adding to the village’s picturesque charm. Each of these sacred places seemed to have its own unique story, which only added to the enchantment of the area.
I wrapped up my time in the area with local delicacies at a family-run taverna—cheese, wine, and stories served in equal measure. The fresh, local ingredients and the warm, inviting atmosphere made my meal a culinary adventure.
Eastern Crete’s Lasting Impressions
My journey through Eastern Crete left me with countless memories and a deep understanding of the region’s rich history and culture. Moni Toplou, with its renowned tsikoudia and wealth of artifacts, and Kavousi Village, with its delightful lychnarakia, rich history, and natural beauty, epitomize the region’s unique charm.
A Final Note from Heraklion
Returning to Lato Boutique Hotel for one last night before flying out, I stood on the balcony of my sea-view room, gear packed and lychnarakia boxed up. From the easternmost monasteries to the heart of Heraklion’s urban charm, my journey came full circle. I couldn’t have asked for a better place to unwind—Lato’s relaxed elegance, safe neighborhood, and proximity to the port made every transition effortless.
Additional Sources for an Eastern Crete Experience
Sitia Geopark (Sitia): This geopark not only showcases the natural beauty of Eastern Crete, but also offers visitors the chance to learn about local handicrafts such as weaving, pottery, and more.
Kouremenos Beach: A long sandy beach near Palaikastro (1,5 km). The sea is ideal for windsurfing and one of the best in Europe.
Vai Beach was another highlight of this Eastern Crete trip, with its lush palm forest, crystal-clear waters, and golden sand. It was the perfect spot to relax and soak up the Mediterranean sun.
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