Experience the island of Crete in Greece

Tag: papi osteria caffeteria

  • Heraklion’s Best Brunch Spots

    Heraklion’s Best Brunch Spots

    Brunch! Is it breakfast? Is it lunch? The best of both? Well, whatever it is, you can be sure to find some excellent establishments here in Crete offering diners’ favourite chilled-out meal of the day.

    626 Park

    My latest excursion to Heraklion took me to a plethora of mid-morning eateries – the kind perfect for tourists and travellers who, perhaps like me, prefer a late rise or a hearty meal after a morning walk. In all honesty, on this trip, I just refused to get out of my impossibly comfy bed at the Legacy Gastro Suites in time for an early a.m. search for porridge, toast, and other breakfast delights.

    Instead of waking up early and overcoming the breakfast blues I’m so used to, back in the city, I wanted the whole breakfast shebang in my own sweet time. And it turned out there’s an abundance of local dining options perfectly catered to cater for my all-day, anytime, a.m. appetite.

    I made it my goal, during my week escape, to sample a fine selection of all-day breakfast and brunch goodness, so you, like me, know you can have your morning meal when you feel like it. If you’re looking to enjoy Heraklion but need those few extra hours in bed, there’s no reason to stress – there are plenty of delicious dining rooms open so you can start your day right.

     

    The Best Late Start to the Day

    My first brunch recommendation is just a short walk from the famous Heraklion Archaeological Museum and historic Venetian Port – both perfect locations for morning wanders, if you, unlike me, manage to escape the comfort of your hotel bed.

    626 all day Lounge

    626 All Day Lounge and City Garden is everything it says on the tin: morning till night, eat when you want, all-day dining. And what’s more, you have the choice of where to indulge in your laidback meal – inside, in a cosy and modern air-conditioned dining room, outside on a sidewalk patio with urban views, or even in the park across, full of trees and flowers. Part of the new eco-hotel Olive Green, the restaurant feels fresh, exciting, and a fantastic place to start your day – whenever that may be. I chose to sit outside in the ‘City Garden’ so I could enjoy the views of the shady square facing the restaurant, but I made sure to tour the dining room too. A place for the Instagram crowd – with hanging basket chairs, artistic ceiling graphics, rustic food presentation, and an impressively long bar table for you to dine at. The latter exudes a communal feel – getting you up close with the personable baristas and bar staff hard at work behind it, and the travellers, tourists, and locals chowing down alongside you.

     

    626 Choices

    The menus are comprehensive and delightful, with food services running from Breakfast and Brunch to Lunch and Dinner. They offer three complete breakfast set menus including a traditional Cretan Breakfast, a Healthy Breakfast with low-fat cheese and sourdough, and an impressive Kalimera Breakfast featuring smoked bacon in olive oil, sourdough with hazelnut praline, and mini croissants. Even the kids can start the day well with their own specialised menu, treating them to pancakes, caramelised banana and chocolate sauce, and cheese and turkey sandwiches – that actually sounds pretty good…

    Triple Chocolate pancakes

    Each of these inexpensive breakfast packages also comes with freshly squeezed, thirst-quenching orange juice – made especially for you behind the bar. But, if you big kids want to shape your own brunch, the menu also includes a selection of pancakes, eggs, desserts, and more. These set menus seem immensely popular, with both the locals around me and the guests from the Olive Green hotel finishing off impressive and colourful plates of Cretan fare.

    Without further ado, I began my easy-going breakfast with bruschetta and humus, an omelette roll filled with traditional Cretan xygalo sour cream, and Pancakes Bueno – which, I’m not ashamed to say, excited me greatly like the big kid I am. Try the local delicacies, and then feast on what you used to have as a kid – that’s always the plan. I’ll admit, I may have bitten off more than I could’ve chewed as three of these goliath pancakes arrived, topped with Bueno cream and a hazelnut crumble. Not to worry – perfect to take away to enjoy with a coffee and a view later on. If you fancy setting yourself up a picnic and dining somewhere else in the city – perhaps in one of the tranquil parks or ocean overlooks – 626‘s entire menu is also available for takeaway.

    Another Day, Another Brunch

    Open Faced Sandwich

    At the heart of the town, slightly further away than the previous day’s breakfast excursion, the aptly named Central Park is located both centrally, and next to a park. Theotokopoulos Park, to be specific – just minutes past Heraklion’s main shopping district. The cafe is a must for mid-morning atmosphere too. If you enjoy local music, urban hustle and bustle, and city ambience, this is an ideal first stop on a day out – especially if you’re exploring the city. Central Park also features an unexpectedly modern interior, despite its unassuming placement in this mythic city. Industrial metal, chic, dark-toned contemporary stylings, a unique padded texture on the ceilings, and steampunk lighting decorate the space. Like a pocket of the Industrial Age, but without the smoke.

    Not only themed well, Central Park is extremely generous with its brunching options and big plates, providing you with croissants, Eggs Benny, pancakes, and assorted fresh sandwiches. I was particularly intrigued by the seldom-offered ‘open-faced sandwich’, a Bruschetta-like dish with a somewhat comedically expressive name. Also available for you to tuck into are paninis, handmade local LUBŌ jams, waffles, and a superb selection of coffees – both hot and cold.

    If you fancy something stronger to kickstart your day, Central Park has it on tap. It’s often said that it’s generally more acceptable, or less frowned upon, to enjoy alcohol with your brunch than with your breakfast. Who knows why a matter of a few hours makes a difference between having a mimosa or a pint with your Eggs Florentine, but at Central Park, the cocktails and alcoholic beverages are flowing and unquestioned. I recommend washing down your brunch with two drinks: a warming coffee to your left, and a cooling Negroni on the right. A perfect complement to sourdough, eggs, and a good time.

    Brunching in this stylish abode is available till 1 pm. Afterwards, you can enjoy a post-snack stroll through the park or to the nearby Morosini Fountain – a lion-guarded memento from the 1600s that should be on everyone’s Heraklion sightseeing list.

    Frankly, My Dear

    Unlike Clark Gable’s character in the oft-quoted Gone with the Wind, you, frankly, should give a damn about Frankly Cafe. Influenced by the 1939 film, with images of Gable’s Rhett Butler emblazoned on the walls, windows, and menus, this film noir-cum-cafe is a must-go site for foodies, coffee aficionados, and fans of the classics. If a pulp detective suddenly called it quits and opened up a coffee house, this would be it.

    Frankly Cafe

    Initially, I felt like I was back in London when I came across this cosmopolitan kitchen. Minimally designed with a retro twist – floor-to-ceiling glass, armchairs, typewriters, and wooden bureaus – you can see my confusion. With these classy stylings and old-world edge, Frankly wouldn’t seem out of place in hip Covent Garden. But, the Church of Agios Minas on the street outside and the unwavering Cretan hospitality from the second you step over the threshold firmly places this bodacious bistro in Heraklion.

    Printed in a typewriter font is the small, perfectly proposed, and mouth-watering brunch menu – scrambled eggs and salmon on toast, breakfast paninis, bagels, pancakes, and – of course – coffee. Of the four mid-morning eateries I dined in, this is the go-to for a killer cup of Joe. Order up, bring it with you to enjoy the city coming to life, or slow your day down and take in the drama and characters in the cafe around you. Local students also frequent this slice of Hollywood cool – the laidback urban atmosphere and flowing coffee lend to a perfect working environment. If you need to get some work done on your excursion, catch up on your studies or a good book, or even write the next great screenplay, Frankly, my dear, is the best place for you.

    Eggcellent Offerings

    My final stop of the week, fittingly, was closest to my bed. Just downstairs from it, to be precise. Papi Osteria Caffeteria, the Legacy Gastro Suites’ very own, recently opened Italian restaurant was the perfect place to round out my dining trip. Having been invited to the restaurant’s opening recently and thoroughly enjoying it, as I mentioned in one of my previous articles, I knew my final morning’s brunch would be a treat.

    I rolled out of bed at my usual 11 am and descended to the hotel restaurant, but if you don’t have the luxury of staying above this ideal brunch location, you can find it in Eleftherias Square in Heraklion’s city centre. Inside, you’ll find a grandiose dining room with sparkling chandeliers, classical vibes, and electric hospitality. You’ll find the same if you choose to dine on the outside terrace, but you’ll also be treated with picturesque city views.

    I know what I like, and I liked them last time I ate at Papi – the cayenne eggs. Accompanied by a side of Cretan sausage, a tall glass of OJ, and a rewarding beer for my last day, this was exactly the way to end my week in sleepy style. You’ll also find a host of sandwiches, super bowls (the yogurt kind, not the American), and enticing desserts on the brunch menu, meaning you can decide if your morning meal is going to be sweet or savoury.

    Never a disappointment, Papi will be a restaurant I keep coming back to in Heraklion, regardless of whether I’m staying at the Legacy Gastro Suites or not. You won’t find eggs cooked so well in all of Heraklion, nor will you find a more endearing staff to take care of your brunching needs. If you get the chance, swing by Papi for dinner too – illuminated by idyllic lanterns on the terrace, there’s no better way to enjoy a Mediterranean sunrise, a romantic meal, or some much-needed winding-down time.

    Don’t Grab and Go, Sit and Eat

    After a week of mid-morning culinary exploration, it was time to depart from Heraklion and return to the boring regiment of 8 am meals, pre-work pastries, and the dreaded grab-and-go during the morning commute. It was a nice change to have a lie-in, eat breakfast when I felt like it, and enjoy the experience. Crete is the perfect place to fall back in love with my favourite meal… at my favourite pace.

    Perhaps we all need to rethink how we start our days. We’re always rushing around, breezing past great service and the magical morning hours trying to get from point A to point B. Breakfast is a beautiful time, home to the best coffees, the finest eggs and bread, sitting back, and coming to. I think it’s time we learn from the Cretans and just slow down, take it easy, forget about the rules and regiments, spend another few hours in bed… and eat and drink when we want. And in Heraklion, you really can.

  • Legacy of the Gastro Suites

    Legacy of the Gastro Suites


    An unexpected invitation, a weekday excursion, and the promise of bread and wine. It appeared someone had read my previous article about Heraklion and decided to take me up on my comment that I should return to Crete near-immediately. It was a treat to find the invitation in my inbox, and the words ‘food’, ‘drink’, and ‘Crete’ attached to it. This surprise summons was for the grand opening of the delectable restaurant Papi Osteria Caffeteria, part of Heraklion’s popular and much-discussed Legacy Gastro Suites.

    Open for Business

    This ‘grand opening’ was tinged with a relatable and a rather zeitgeist familiarity – the hotel and restaurant, like so many, had been affected by a certain world event that had shuttered businesses, stolen away tourists, and crippled the global economy – and our ability to travel.
    It was a bittersweet note arriving for the grand reopening of the hotel that would have thrived if not for the pandemic. Seeing the hardworking and hopeful staff crossing their fingers for the place’s resurrection was certainly inspiring. The hotel and restaurant, after such a wait, didn’t disappoint. This feeling was shared among the other guests: an eclectic mix of local critics and reviewers, switched-on influencers, curious locals, and eager travellers. They’d all assembled for the 18th of May’s introductory celebrations, and the vibe was very much one of relaxation, consideration, and relief.

    With stunning views of both the city and the Mediterranean from its sea view suites and a 1950s inspiration to the décor, there’s a classic sense of tranquillity at play here. Subtle escapism, and a real feeling of bygone disconnect from the hustle and bustle of the city around it. Arriving at the hotel was like arriving at a quiet library on a remote island: books line the walls, carpets and rugs adorn the floors, and cosy furniture will be your salvation after a long journey. This library-chic is stylish, unexpected, and exceptionally homely. The staff – our helpful librarians – come alive in the space. They feel proud of it, welcoming, and – importantly – enthused that their arrivals for the opening are poring over their surroundings like an engaging novel. This isn’t to say that the hotel doesn’t feel modern – it does, but with a period veneer over its contemporary functionality. You’ll find Wi-Fi everywhere, for example, but the atmosphere of timeless wonderment and post-War freedom has a much stronger connection.

    Lighting the Way

    The ground floor restaurant, our host for the evening, you can tell has been meticulously planned and prepared during its unprecedented sabbatical. Papi tailored its menu towards an Italian/Mediterranean scene with Greek influences and that Cretan hospitality one looks forward to. From inside a grand chandeliered and somewhat regal dining room or outside on a well-lit, romantic terrace, diners can experience a range of pizzas and pasta, seafood dishes, and fine wines. Some of the diners noted that this was some of the most enjoyable Italian food I’d sampled throughout Greece.

    Of my dining options, I was recommended the Cotoletta alla Milanese by my talkative waiter. Her eagerness and enthusiasm for the space shone as bright as the table lanterns around me, certainly reflective of the good time transpiring at the opening. I, perhaps, would’ve opted for one of the seven pizza options offered on the menu (including truffle!) but I can never turn down a recommendation – partially out of social awkwardness, but why wouldn’t you take an expert’s advice? I’ll admit, I’m yet to be disappointed by a Cretan’s recommendation – the Cotoletta alla Milanese was inspirational. A tender veal schnitzel, crispy from the breadcrumbs, and served with Lyonnaise potatoes. Truly Italian food done right. This perfectly complemented the gnocchi with braised beef I’d chosen as my appetiser, washed down with a house red and a glass of vermouth, because why not? If you’re going to go Italian, try the vermouth.
    By dessert, the outside dining area was electric with well-fed and well-watered guests; the critics satisfied; the influencers content with the photos they’d taken of their food; the locals pleased to have a fantastic new eatery in their city; and the travellers ready for a well-earned rest. As I over-indulged in my indulgent tiramisu and final glass of vermouth for the evening, the idea of bed was sneaking into my mind’s peripherals too.

    Drawing to a Close

    My cabin for the night is one of twelve beautiful boutique suites that make up the hotel. Each suite has its own character and stylings, themed after a famous Greek figure. 16th Century painter Doménikos Theotokópoulos – more famously known as El Greco – was the patron of my room, and you could tell from the rich command of colours, Byzantine stained-glass windows, chandelier, and all the gold trimmings. Like one of El Greco’s masterpieces where the attention’s in the detail, the suite also includes
    all the modern fittings you’d expect from a luxury stay. A fancy walk-in rainfall shower, a Nespresso machine and mini-bar, complimentary Wi-Fi so you can Instagram your aesthetic abode, a copy of El Greco’s artwork ‘The Annunciation’, and TV – but the sight from the window is unequivocally more enjoyable viewing.

    With a beautiful panoramic view of the Port and Mediterranean, and a convenient wine cooler in the room, El Greco’s suite certainly transported me to a place of peace. From the spacious balcony dining area, one could imagine a particularly romantic evening unfolding –
    if you aren’t travelling alone like me. My date for the evening would be the complimentary Greek labels in the wine cooler, and the temptation of another vermouth if I ancied pulling myself out of the impossibly comfortable King-sized bed. One wonders if the Palace of Knossos just outside the city walls was ever so lavishly furnished. Legacy certainly tries its best to be a modern-day palace in its unique stylings, attention to detail, and spoiling splendour. However, my suite wasn’t the only example of this historic luxury…

    Writing’s on the Wall

    One of the influencer types who attached themselves to me at dinner and regaled me with photographs of their dinner allowed me to check out their suite – for inquisitive writing purposes, of course. The irony was not lost on me that their suite was dedicated to literature, learning, and world-revered author Nikos Kazantzakis, of Zorba the Greek fame. I certainly would’ve been home in that suite too, surrounded by books, rugs, armchairs, and everything an influencer fond of the hashtag #librarylife, one of those aesthetic rabbit holes featuring everything from coffee cups on stacked novellas to Cretan hotel rooms that resemble the Library of Alexandra. I spied a copy of Captain Corelli’s Mandolin in a bookcase and agreed that he would probably feel at ease in this 50s-inspired bibliotheque, with the gentle waters of
    the Mediterranean just beyond the room’s writing desk.

    Another endearing feature of the Legacy Gastro Suites is the in-room gastronomy service. If Papi’s grandeur isn’t your scene or you’re more interested in sampling some traditional Greek delicacies, you can request some ulinary revolutions to be brought instead to your suite. Cold cuts, cheeses, nuts and tapenades, small plates, and local favourites – perfect for accompanying that bottle of wine or glass of… I really should just get out of bed and order that vermouth, shouldn’t I?

    Morning Musings

    After a rejuvenating sleep, my first stop of the day was breakfast back in Papi. You’ve got to try the Cayenne eggs with Cretan sausage and feta cheese. I’m not going to spoil it for you – it’s one of those meals to jump-start your day like no other. You’ll find that they do eggs exceptionally well in Papi, but the selection of bread, Greek yoghurts and honey shouldn’t be passed up either. If you’ve read my previous article, you know I’m all about the bread – and like all the food put in front of me during this excursion, the fresh Greek bread did not disappoint.

    After breakfast was the opportune time to reacquaint myself with what’s rapidly becoming a favourite destination. You’re in the heart of the city with this hotel, and everything’s accessible to you via foot. Overlooking the city’s central public space Eleftherias Square, Legacy is also two minutes from the Heraklion Archaeological Museum – somewhere I, unfortunately, missed on my previous trip. I managed it this time, and that’s definitely somewhere you want to check out.
    Enjoying the hotel too much for archaelogical exploration? Not to worry – if you’re planning to stay in and around the hotel, food is served throughout the day in the restaurant. A healthy menu of well-roasted coffees, a keen selection of draft beers and ciders, and – of course – wines are also at your disposal. You’ll have to wait for the PM, though, for a certain Italian fortified wine…

    Papi’s Legacy

    I’m elated that my experience at this wonderful hotel – and in its very welcome new restaurant – was so positive. It’s certainly one I’ll return to on my next, and probably imminent, trip to Heraklion. Perhaps next time I’ll have the chance to stay in the writer’s room, or even the third style of suite inspired by Cretan poet Vincenzo Kornaros. Regardless, it’s safe to say that I’ll be back. Especially if invited.

    For now, though, what will be the legacy of the Gastro Suites and Papi? A luxurious, bright, and intimate dining experience? A top romantic, boutique city break destination? A firm favourite of the critics and food enthusiasts? I would likely say all of the above.